MOUNT VICTORIA

Panoramic views

The ascent of Mount Victoria can be described in two words "Awe Inspiring". Though not the highest mountain in Papua New Guinea it is one of the least climbed. In fact our reconnaissance trip was the first civilian ascent in a decade. It is the highest mountain in the Owen Stanley Range which is the great cordillera that divides the country north from south. At 4072 metres it is certainly no mean height and it is within three hours flying time from Cairns. Apart from magnificent scenery the mountain is unparalleled for variety of vegetation, flora and fauna. Our ascent commences in the small village of Munumu in the foothills of the Owen Stanleys; not far from The Kokoda Track.

This village is only twenty minutes from the nations capital Port Moresby in a twin engined light plane. At 600 metres above sea level this is the last human habitation we will see for nine days. We arrange carriers and local guides in this village before heading off. After leaving the valley we work our way up a spectacular ridge line that leads us to the main range at 2800 metres. This takes two days. There are occasional views and some amazing architecture by bower birds who choose the narrow ridge to build their dance grounds. After leaving this ridge line we then step out of Antarctic beech forest into a pristine grass land valley complete With meandering streams filled with the purest Adams Ale you have ever tasted. This is a most welcome sight and the presence of many ancient cycad trees gives the feeling that one is stepping back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. We walk across this valley and rest our weary bodies for the night on the northern edge. The mood of this valley is constantly rearranged with changing light and cloud movement. Within a few moments it can change from a gloomy threatening place to a warm floodlit arena with towering cliffs that seem to guard the valley from the blights of modern civilisation. Indeed it is a mountain refuge which we are reluctant to leave as we stumble out of bed for an early start the next day. From the grasslands we move up another ridgeline that leads us to a whole string of mountain peaks. The vegetation now changes to forest again with a dense undergrowth of climbing bamboo till we reach the limit of the treeline at around 3500 metres. It is with exhilaration that we scale the last few metres to reach our first peak at 3648 metres. Named after Papua New Guineas first Prime Minister Mt Somare provides excellent views to our destination which at this stage is dwarfed by the rugged terrain closer to hand. We now have to negotiate a traverse around the rocky Lalitha Spire and work our way over Mt Service down to the knife edge end of a glacial cirque between Mt Service and Mt Huxley. It is here that we bivvy for the night with a back and front door view that certainly does not invite sleep walking. This is our eagles lair home for two nights as tomorrow is the big day. Sleep comes in dribs and drabs as the adrenalin is starting to build up for the summit bid.

With enough gear to make an emergency camp in the open if necessary we negotiate what looks to be an impossible wall of rocks that towers above our bivvy site. Due to careful reconnaissance on our first trip we have found a very secure route up this wall that requires security roping on only one small section. At 3770 metres we reach the main ridge line and Mt Victoria is now fully in view.

Lalitha Spire

It would be easy to take in Mt Huxley at this stage but it is better to do this on return if the weather holds. For now it is a short cut past Mt Huxley along the ridge and up to the summit. With hearts thumping, heads aching (from lack of oxygen at altitude) and adrenalin pumping we reach the summit cairn and pause to contemplate our achievement. If the weather is good we can see the coast on both the North and South of the country. The rugged mountain terrain is awe inspiring and for many it is a deeply spiritual moment. Photographs, hugs, handshakes, a brief note in our summit log book and then it is time to have a celebration meal together. Caviar, smoked mussels, kippers and other such delicacies are washed down with cognac, whisky and plenty of hot tea and coffee. It is with sadness that we retrace our steps to the grasslands and down to Munumu. On return to Port Moresby we have a final celebration dinner before returning to Australia.